6/16/2008

Who Will Buy

I have been reminded of the novel Oliver Twist, each morning from the time I awake to the time I leave for work. More specifically, of the movie musical Oliver.

The scene that comes to mind is when we hear the song Who Will Buy?

Remember, all the merchants that come out at daybreak to bring bread, flowers, coal, vegetables, anything a household would need to run properly.

And the scene, all the houses are the same, white and tall, situated around the common green. The differences are the cooks and maids that come through the bottom doors to purchase what they need.

Well, Khartoum is the same, or I should say Diem is, the name of the area that I am living. Each morning, around the square merchants arrive with carts pulled by donkeys or horses, or by Toyota pickup trucks, their flat beds open to house their products.

The announcement of what they are selling comes from bull-horns, not quite as lovely as Who Will Buy‘s melody. They announce fish, water, bread, junk they will buy, vegetables, fruit, flip flops, glassware, dishes.

The vegetable truck always parks in the center, and women in their bright colors alight from their doors and purchase what they need. I always think of a sunflower when this happens. The dark truck center and the bright colored petals.

Even the garbage men have a signal. A man with a very loud whistle, precedes the garbage truck, by about two Khartoum blocks, announcing their arrival. There is no set delivery day or time. If you are not around, you miss it. One does not set out garbage to wait for the truck. The dogs or goats will have at it and make one huge mess.

I am the only house with a garbage can. All others put it out in plastic bags. So now, even the garbage men know who I am.

That strange American woman with the barking, growling dog.